He told me that he is really only interested in three things.
The Best of Little Things Matter
First, will the euro survive? Second, what will China do? Everything else is of interest only in relation to these three items. You are lucky if you are a Russia analyst. It is a world in which power is defined solely in terms of market value. Soft power does not exist, but military power is also much less valuable than most believe. This is an aspect of great importance: if you have market power, you had better act like you do. Being powerful in the markets and then behaving foolishly in politics is the ultimate sin.
The message is that when you have money, grow up. Hear that, Europe?
It’s The Little Things That Matter in Shopping Centers
Get the message, Saudi Arabia? In essence, it is a world of mercantile realpolitik. Only a few places across the globe, those with market impact, matter. Other places, and the people in them, matter less. You can call that a healthy sense of priority or you can call it brutal heartlessness, but so be it. Human affairs do not impact everyone the same way. The big rich three—America, China, and Europe—deserve your attention; the rest are just political derivatives.
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Which means it is a world in which having oil and nukes and little green men can make you somewhat important, but not really important. It is a world ruled by short-term considerations. Investors want return on investment. Many of them want it on a quarterly basis, which puts their attention span at one-sixteenth of that of a politician who runs on a four-year election cycle. If you think Western democratic politics is short-termist, shallow, and out of breath, welcome to the world of mercantile realpolitik! Everything here happens so fast that all those undercurrents of human development, the slow-burning big issues, barely register.
Or rather, these undercurrents matter, but very differently from the way conventional analysts describe. Because the world of mercantile realpolitik is not the world of representative democracy. That Canon 65mm 1x-5x lens that got me hooked on macro? It resolves up to , meaning that six-foot-tall person on that movie screen would appear feet tall.
Macro lenses come in a variety of focal lengths, usually ranging from around 65mm out through mm. The shorter the focal length, the closer you need to be to your subject to maintain that ratio. If a macro lens is listed as having a nine-inch minimum focal distance, then the lens needs to be nine inches away to be at Another way to get a macro image is to take a normal lens and add an extension tube—a glass-free tube the same width as a normal lens, which moves the standard lens away from the sensor, and I like to think of those elementary-school circular magnifying glasses we all used in science.
Hold a magnifying glass right up to a bug and the bug appears life-size or slightly bigger. Move the magnifying glass away from the bug and it starts to look bigger and bigger.
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The disadvantage is that by moving the lens away from the sensor you lose some light, which results in some loss of image quality. Another way to create a macro lens is to take a standard lens and mount it to the camera so that the front element points toward the sensor using a reverse-mount adapter ring sized for the thread size of your lens and the mount for your camera.
An important consideration when shooting macros is the use of autofocus.
Many macro lenses, especially those at longer focal lengths, benefit from having autofocus capabilities. For closer work, though, many people shoot in manual focus and use minute adjustments of the distance between the lens and the subject to change the critical focus area. When shooting insects outdoors, I try to slowly sway toward them, because insects are less frightened of something that moves like a blowing branch than something like the sound of an autofocus motor. These days I tend to shoot with a mirrorless system, or shoot my DSLRs in Live View mode, as the ability to compose and evaluate a scene using a pivoting LCD screen means fewer shoots spent laying in the underbrush.
An issue of great importance in macro photography is lighting, and the importance of your lighting increases along with magnification. Macro photography needs a lot of light, especially as you start to stop down to increase depth of field. You can photograph flowers in bright sun with a macro lens, but as you get right near , light falls off very quickly. Above , and you need a very large amount of light to create an evenly illuminated scene.
The best lighting for macro photography is a macro-sized ring light or macro setup with dual flashes that can be rotated around a ring that attaches to the front of a lens. This allows the photographer to angle the light in order to create different looks, and to create fill flash at a macro scale. I have a variety of penlight-sized lights to throw light on small surfaces, as well as LED headlamps to help me illuminate something by pointing my head at it.
I remember doing some of my early macro work with a Canon EOS 1D, which I shot handheld when capturing bees, flies and other insects. Blacks like Perylene Black are really just dark green. Other blacks have a heavy blue bias and when mixed with a yellow will produce a lovely green. Burnt Umber is also a dull green. Although I don't use this colour, I have seen some remarkable painting done solely in the earthy green.
Throwing some purple in your greens makes them sing.
Little violet on the tops of trees picks up the sky colour and helps the greens meld into the sky, making your trees look less cut out. Purple at the base of pine trees can bring a wonderful vibrancy to a painting. Although there are many shades of Red Ocher they all appear subdued when compared to Vermilion. Red Ocher is very opaque. It mixes well with other colours and produces a great variety of natural shades. Red is the first colour to leave the visual spectrum. Red has the shortest wave length and therefore has the least amount of oomph when it comes to visual distance.
If you look out over a long landscape, you will see that there is very little red in the distance. This is the reason warms colours tend to come forward and cool colours tend to move away from you. Red leaves the spectrum first, then orange, then yellow, until you are left with the distant longer-wave colours - green purple and blue. Veronese green, permanent green, extra permanent green, emerald green earth green Phthalo this and Phthalo that, cadmium green and many other random greens you might find, but it never turns out to be the particular green you are looking for…never… Here is what they don't tell you….
First off, green isn't as green as you think. Most things you think are green aren't actually green. Note the lack of green in this Randall Sexton painting. Lot's of tree but no green. Not much green in this Shanna Kunz prairie scene. Most artists purchase too many greens. Any combination of blue and yellow will make a green. The trick is to know what blue and what yellow to use. There are only two kinds of green - warm and cool. Green, being a secondary colour, will always have a bias to either blue cool or yellow warm.
It's the little things that matter the most - Your Modern Dad
Before you mix your green decide the following: What temperature do you want your green to be warm vs. What value do you want light vs. How much chroma do you want bright vs.